Word Of Mouse

Although our tent was pitched in the shadeless desert and the campsite was less well provided for than we´d come to appreciate in Spain we decided to stay two nights as we felt in need of a day off. We had a very enjoyable day off in Puebla de Sanabria exploring the castle and medieval fair that was in town for a four day festival over the Spanish equivalent of August bank holiday weekend. We found delicious lunches on the street stalls thpough I chickened out and bought falafel as I didn´t think my spanish was up to making sure I got what what i wanted from various vats of boiling things from octopus (several huge whole ones) to bug legs of ham etc etc. We had a cup of tea (well Malc had two once we realised that that was what you got served without choice) in a recreated Arabic tea house sitting on low stools at copper tables. The tea was servedn in glittery glasses with pseudo Arabic lettering abd then big gold letters proudly announcing their manufacture in Korea. We were presented with these as treasures to take away when we left. Surprisingly enough the paking police didn´t allow passage to the well loaded panniers so we´ve had to move on without them.
we got back to the campsite for a swim and evening meal before bagging an early night with the hope of an early start. We didn´t sleep well on account of various night time noises from partying people and dogs and on my part impossibly itchy skin. we abandonned our early start. So it was frustrating on begining our late start to discover that my itchy skin was caused by a horrible rec patchy rash covering most of teh front of my body and the palms of my hands. Oh no another ailment - i seem to have always at least one on the go these days. We´ve taken to calling them ALIments in vague effort to introduce humour. I thought I was going to get through spain without engaging with the medical services but it wasn´t to be so. The very nice pharmacist said i must see a doctor and drew me a map. We got to to medical centre and I went in armed with my 50 words of Spanish and a phrase book. with teh help of a couple of young people in reception I got myself a ticket with a number on and followed directions to the first floor. I hate medical establishments at teh best of times so I wasn´t really enjoying my morning. Things seemed to get worse when I opened an unlocked toilet door on an elderly lady. At least I had already learnt how to apologise in spanish! i then sat down to wait for my number to come up. everybody kept asking me what my number was then I realised how the system worked. No numbers come up and nobody calls your name or number but the door opens and you know it´s your turn on account of who comes out. Fortunately context and careful listening made me realise that as 31 I should follow the woman who was 29...ok. Anyway oi got to see a very nice English speaking young woman doctor who had a look art the rash and diagnosed an allergic reaction. I didn´t even have to strip off - the French doctor routine seems to go:
patient:I have a tick bite on my ankle
doctor: come over hear and take all your clothes off so I can look at it
or something like that.
I don´t know what I am allergic to but we narrowed it down to being something I ate or drank or swam in or something in the air.
Anyway a prescription for four pills and a big needle in the bum and I was released feeling like i´d been kicked by a donkey. We picked up the prescription and did some food shopping and finally at midday set off on our long journey.

We knew we were in for a long climb over teh first 20 miles, but it turned out to be at least wo long climbs over about 30n miles and that was just the start. After climbing our highest peak for teh day we stopped for drinks and met a Dutch family on a cycle tour. the~´d started off in teh south but had fled north on account of temperatures in the 40s. we´re hoping our coastal route is going to avoid too much of that. The bar was unfriendly to say the least so we didn´t hang round for long. It was hot and hard and teh hills just kept on coming. At 25 km to Verin, where we agreed we might cop out and get a hotel, I thought I couldn´t pedal another revolution, nevermind the big climb ahead. somehow we made it and it just seemed wrong not to do the last little flat bit to Portugal. We set off out of town the wrong way up a hill - not the best start - then found our road. for once teh river road was actually (relatively) flat and we sped on in autopilot. The last five miles to Chaves (pronounced like charvers for the amusement of my geordie friends and yes we have met some reet canny bardy charvers since we´ve been here)seemed endless and the extra five miles through town to the campsite notice announcing another 4 km, even more so. The road took an umpleasant turn up hil the campsite signs disappeared and with them my faith. I just wanted to stop and the mileage clock had passed 80 and it was all too much. We passed a restaurant and with my NO words of portuguese I asked the way to the campsite and a a couple of very nice old blokes enthusiastically directed us. Eventually we were there. A warm welcome from a couple of locals and a pitch between a friendly Scottish father and daughter and a Dutch family and things started to look better. Food in bellies and tent up and hot shower and we felt almosr human again. Certainly ready for what was a very good night´s sleep. So it´s a day off today for doing useful jobs and having a bit of a rest while the washing dries, mmm and a very nice lunch in town. I ordered too mystery dishes and got lovely local ham to start and then some fish. We´ve just been to a small shop to buy some fruit! 2 more days´cycling to the coast and hopefully some diving.